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Cibolo Creek Ranch
Andrew Harper's Hideaway Report, August 2005
Volume XXVII, Number 3
Talk about privacy and seclusion. Idyllic Cibolo Creek hunkers down amid 30,000 acres of dramatic scrubland plateaus, deep gorges, red mesas and rocky peaks in the southwest, middle-of-nowhere corner of Texas, near the Mexican border and Big Bend National Park. The nearest commercial airports are in El Paso and Midland/Odessa, a 31/2 - to 4-hour drive away, though the working ranch possesses a 5,300-foot paved airstrip for the private aircraft of high-powered CEOs and celebrities who occasionally escape here. A genuine Old West oasis fed by natural springs, the remarkably historic property sits at 4,000-foot altitude, the crystal-clear air yielding cool year-round evenings and an awesome canopy of glittering stars that must be seen to be believed.
It was pioneer-fugitive Milton Faver who first discovered the vast spread back in 1849. A skosh over 5 feet in height, Faver was small by Texas standards, but his ambitions were as big as the surrounding terrain. After acquiring title to three springs, he constructed a trio of unique adobe forts to protect his 20,000 head of longhorn cattle from Apaches and rustlers. In 1889 he died, never knowing his legacy would be resurrected a century later by entrepreneur John Poindexter.
From a pile of ruins, the visionary Texas executive scrupulously recreated Cibolo from a historical perspective, his years of extensive research and authentic restoration undertaken with one goal in mind: if Milton Faver rose from the dead and again walked his ranch, he would feel right at home. Most experts agree that Poindexter’s wish was achieved, his efforts garnering numerous awards, including three listings in the National Register of Historic Places.
All of the ranch’s distinctive adobe structures and imposing forts have been rebuilt with an enormous attention to detail, from hand-tied ocotillo roofs down to the wood doors fastened with hand-forged brass latches. You enter the main compound of the largest fort (El Cibolo) by way of a sheltered courtyard, the massive castle-like watchtower now housing a private museum containing Native American and pioneer artifacts uncovered during excavations. A charming hacienda has been built behind the fort, its engaging screened-in veranda opening into a welcoming fireplaced living room embellished by traditional cottonwood-beamed viga ceilings. Meals are served on the scenic covered porch or indoors near a roaring fire, the commendable Mexican-inspired menu highlighted by rich soups, hearty entrees (such as fresh venison, chile-glazed quail, buffalo steaks and sea bass) and tempting desserts.
Twenty handsome Spanish-flavored guest quarters occupy the El Cibolo compound, most of the units accented by king/queen beds draped in handstitched quilts, adobe corner fireplaces, Mexican folk art, old photographs and Saltillo tile floors scattered with cowskin throw rugs. None features a phone or TV. “Master Suite” is the prized lodging and comes augmented by fireplaced living room, private veranda and plush bath with a whirlpool tub and walk-in shower. The main enclave also encompasses a beautiful outdoor pool/spa with picturesque mountain views, a spring-fed pond stocked with bass and perch, and a small workout room (with massages available on advance notice).
Two other historic forts on the ranch provide the most privacy from their vantage points 8 to 12 miles away. Accessed by gravel road, La Cienega houses four accommodations, a living/dining area and kitchen within the actual fort, plus a small heated pool. An additional seven rooms are available in an adjacent hacienda. Finally, a one-bedroom cottage flanks La Morita, the smallest and most secluded fort.
Daytime activities include exhilarating guided hikes and horseback rides into the colorful Chinati Mountains, skeet shooting and four-wheel-drive tours around the ranch, which is grazed by Texas longhorn cattle, buffalo and burro (though antelope, elk and mule deer are also prevalent). You should also visit Big Bend National Park cradled by the Rio Grande, its fascinating mountain and desert landscape being home to 450 species of birds. Spring is the prime time for viewing the flowering desert plants and legendary bird migrations in this protected virgin environment.
Milton Faver would be pleased with today’s Cibolo Creek and so will you, if you’re an adventuresome traveler seeking comfortable solitude and rugged scenery in a splendidly isolated and authentic pocket of the old American West.
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